Messmore Cliffs (Hemlock Cliffs VI)

DSC 4814

A bit north of the Arrowhead Arch are tall and very steep cliffs, the Messmore cliffs. Above is a look from the top.

DSC 4745

And this is how they look from below.

DSC 4714

To get there (unless you have a rope and know how to rappel), follow the derelict forest road on the cliff top east until you hit the no trespassing chain, then descend left and follow the cliffs.

DSC 4729

There is lots to explore, in complete solitude.

DSC 4754

Much of it is otherworldly

DSC 4768

or retracts into abstraction.

DSC 4775

This has been quite some experience.

DSC 4771

Found (Hemlock Cliffs V)

DSC 4346

Finally, after the silly April 1st post from yesterday, here it is, the elusive Arrowhead Arch.

DSC 4356

It took me two attempts to find it. The reason is that some web pages have the wrong GPS coordinates, and it is also marked incorrectly on some maps. 

DSC 4357

The arch features a special rock where people have decided to follow their irresistible urge. At least it’s pretty much limited to this rock.

DSC 4376

Even if you know where the arch is, it is still hard to find. On my first attempt, I gave up and turned around literally standing on top of it.

DSC 4404

Still, the erring around on the cliff tops pointed me to some other wondrous places. More about them next time.

Did I mention the incredible rock formations?

DSC 4684

Walls (Hemlock Cliffs III)

DSC 4324

Hidden deep in the backcountry near Hemlock Cliffs is a collection of ancient murals.

DSC 4333

They are still a work in progress…

DSC 4344

Both the complexity of the designs and their diversity are surprising, given that they are all only a few steps away from each other.

DSC 4359

Few people ever come here.

DSC 4368

What is the purpose of this? Is everything meant to be seen? Is the question meaningless?

DSC 4371

Maybe all this is just here to give us confidence that there is enough to see, for all of us, if we dare to find it.

DSC 4380

Paths (Hemlock Cliffs II)

DSC 4085

The backcountry near Hemlock cliffs is ruthless.

DSC 4066

There are no established trails you can trust. Follow stream, deer trails, old logging roads if  you wish, you can only be certain that they will not take you where you want to go.

DSC 4086

Most of them end anyway, at a rock face or a clearing leaving you pathless.

DSC 4118

It’s of course very easy to get lost here. GPS, compass, topo map are a must.

DSC 4120

Still, this is not all aimless. We’ll find our way.

DSC 4098

Fog (Hemlock Cliffs I)

DSC 4042

The next few posts will be from several recent visits to the Hemlock Cliffs Nature Preserve and nearby areas.

DSC 4032

The main trail is a short loop that descends steeply into a canyon, featuring a splendid waterfall.

DSC 4060

Early spring and early morning are the perfect times for this landscape, when the emerging colors are tamed by light fog.

DSC 4062

Beech trees seem to radiate and like to be framed properly.

DSC 4081

Wise old trees look curiously at the lonesome hiker.

 

DSC 4093

 

Night Walks

The end of winter marks the time when I started to walk the Pate Hollow trail on an almost daily basis, to stay physically fit and mentally sane.

I know this trail like a close friend, in every mood and season. I mostly walked in the early morning hours, but lately I enjoyed the late evenings, after sunset, using a flashlight for the last half an hour.

The light at dawn has a different quality than at dusk, it has a certain tiredness to it that I can’t explain, but which feels good, like being tired after having persisted, through a day, or through a year.

There is also a certain urgency to this hour, to complete the circle before the time is up.

Darkness enables intimacy — maybe because it forces us to focus harder, maybe because the visible is so close by.

A year has passed. I will treasure every minute spent with a good friend.

A la lumière d’hiver

Aide-moi maintenant, air noir et frais, cristal
noir. Les légères feuilles bougent à peine,
comme pensées d'enfants endormis. Je traverse
la distance transparente, et c'est le temps
même qui marche ainsi dans ce jardin,
comme il marche plus haut de toit en toit, d'étoile
en étoile, c'est la nuit même qui passe.
Je fais ces quelques pas avant de remonter
là où je ne sais plus ce qui m'attend, compagne
tendre ou détournée, servantes si dociles
de nos rêves ou vieux visage suppliant...
la lumière du jour, en se retirant
                                                                      – comme un voile
tombe et reste un instant visible autour
des beaux pieds nus –
                                                   découvre la femme d'ébène
et de cristal, la grande femme de soie noire
dont les regards brillent encore pour moi
de tous ses yeux peut-être éteints depuis longtemps.
La lumière du jour s'est retirée, elle révéle,
à mesure que le temps passe et que j'avance
en ce jardin, conduit par le temps,
                                                                     autre chose
– au-delà de la belle sans relâche poursuivie,
de la reine du bal où nul ne fut jamais convié,
avec ses fermoirs d'or qui n'agrafent plus nulle robe –
autre chose de plus caché, mais de plus proche...
Ombres calmes, buissons tremblant à peine, et les couleurs,
elles aussi, ferment les yeux. L'obscurité
lave la terre.
                      C'est comme si l'immense
porte peinte du jour avait tourné
sur ses gonds invisibles, et je sors dans la nuit,
je sors enfin, je passe, et le temps passe
aussi la porte sur mes pas.
                                                               Le noir n'est plus ce mur
encrassé par la suie du jour éteint,
je le franchis, c'est l'air limpide, taciturne,
j'avance enfin parmi les feuilles apaisées,
je puis enfin faire ces quelques pas, léger
comme l'ombre de l'air,
l'aiguille du temps brille et court dans la soie noire,
mais je n'ai plus de mètre dans les mains,
rien que de la fraîcheur, une fraîcheur obscure
dont on recueille le parfum rapide avant le jour.

(Chose brève, le temps de quelques pas dehors,
mais plus étrange encore que les mages et les dieux.)

Philippe Jaccottet
June 30, 1925 – February 24, 2021